In a case of coals to Newcastle The Runner dragged me to
Hermanus. The town famous for whales. For 14 years I have lived 300km from it, yet
somehow have not been there. Maybe some subconscious
trepidation at encountering a modern day Ahab prevented me. I’ve heard about the traffic jams up Sir
Lowry’s Pass and wondered what sort of martyr would endure that on a Friday
afternoon. From now on, a martyr like
me. The views, the wine, the food and the company came together to create
probably the best 72 hours of my life.
The Views
There is a place down the coast, the exact location I will
not reveal so as not to have it trampled by tourists. Other tourists. From the balcony there is a view across the
bay where you can spot whales in season frolicking (or feeding) quite close to
shore. It is not whale season and I did
not have mirror, therefore no whale spotting for me. Never before did I take 2 hours on a cup of
coffee. The views are just
beautiful. No amount of adjectives will
do it justice. Beautiful will have to do.
My late father used to describe the sea as “Foul, loud and
it reeks”
(1). I had to test this, so I ended up on a bench next to the ocean. This is the view I had to endure. In between gazes I was re-reading
Dangerous Davies whilst waiting for The Runner. She was off doing that incomprehensible thing she does: Running. Slowly it set on me
(2) this is why people endure the traffic.
So that is the view from the bottom. They also have views from the top. This I only realised during day 2, because
they hide the mountains in the dark and we arrived quite late. A nicely tarred road leads up to several
lookout points. From here you can look
down on the sprawling tourist town, or lift your gaze for something more
edifying. If you have a driver who is
not scared of gravel road you get to a piece of
Hamilton Russell Vineyards normally
only seen by the trial bikers. Although
I had visions of tires bursting on the rocks and having to hike down, she was
quite confident (and correct) that all will go well.
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| View from the top |
Having an intrepid driver holds big
advantages, especially when the navigator got us onto dirt roads due to a
dislike of “travelling the same road twice”.
I will not needlessly travel to
Greyton the scenic way again, but I am
glad my misadventure in navigation took us that way.
In the far distance mountains rise in blue grey
splendour. The gravel road winds it’s
way through rolling hills planted to barley and canola. As it descends into dale you lose sight of
the peaks and your whole world becomes farm.
Cresting the next hill the mountains are suddenly a lot closer and more
impressive. They are no longer just
shades of grey. More greens become
visible as the trees take on definition.
Every time it is revealed it impresses more until finally you round a
bend and spot the village nestling on the slopes. Quaint
villages like this nestle. They simply
cannot do anything else. Across a
babbling brook (3) we return to tar to enter the tree lined streets. It is a pretty place, this Greyton. On some streets the branches arch over the road. You can cycle or hike in the mountains, but I suspect a lot of just sitting and watching the beauty happens here.
The Food
At
Klein River Cheesery they have a great playpen. In daylight it is full of children on slides
and swings. I am sure that at night the
cows use it. How else to explain the great
cheese? The cows must give happy
milk. I like the smoked one best. This comes from the cows that are too cool to
play on the swings. They stand next to
the fence smoking, thinking they are superior.
The Gruyere is another favourite of mine, luckily available at my local
supermarket. They also have a very nice
shop that, besides the cheese, sells other artisanal products. The best find was wasabi flavoured chips from
Crispies. Even better than wasabi
flavoured peanuts.
Continuing in a cheesy vein, what about a mostly cheese
breakfast? At the
Hermanuspietersfontein
Saturday market there is a cheese guy. A
self admitted ex-advertising man has a table full of cheese and a couple of
plates of ham-like meat. We put
ourselves in his hands, figuratively, as to how to fill the breakfast plates
with a hard cheese preference for the boy-plate and a runny cheese preference
for the girl plate. At R50 a plate we
thought “This is going to be an expensive breakfast!” Yet strangely satisfying and no need for
extra food. A good start to the day
helped along with some coffee and wine. I
am still trying to find that elusive good breakfast wine.
Dining at
Season Restaurant is a worthwhile experience. We were slightly taken aback at dropping the
average age of the patrons by about 20 years, but as no one took out their
teeth during dinner, it didn’t bother us long. Judging by the events in the kitchen, seen
through a semi opaque window, I was not alone in eating the steak special. Here, for the first time, I saw the bobotie spring
roll on a menu. Apparently a standard in
this part of the world. Across the table
from me a curry was inducing happy noises.
A bottle of Raka Sangiovese at only R4 above farm price (to check on the
quality of the untasted one acquired earlier the day) and some
Hermanuspietersfontein Posmeester accompanied the meal. Inducing yet more happy noises.
Lemon Butta. I detest
names like this. Puns I like, but
deliberate misspellings
(4) annoys me.
So it was with some trepidation that I mounted the stairs to this
irritatingly monikered restaurant. After
a short wait upstairs in their bar with a view (slightly diminished in the
dark), my opinion of the place changed.
The wine list is very good. Not
just the great local stuff, but Springfield as well. The selection really impressed. So, my prejudice would have tripped me up again.
The menu impressed even more. We came here for sushi, it’s been two days
since The Runner last had raw fish and you could see it was starting to
hurt. A slight shaking of the hands,
nervously looking around, making inappropriate comments. It was time for her fix. I had my stomach set on the wasabi glazed
tuna steak. I like tuna steak and eat it
far too infrequently. Unfortunately the
whales ate all the tuna so I settled on a mixed tempura platter. A delight.
The owner remembered my name from
giving it to book. A nice touch. Graffiti on the walls can be a bit off, but
here it seems like genuine appreciation for the good food, friendly and
efficient service of, uh, Lemon Butta. Like
the ex-governor of California, I will be back.
If one needed an unpretty reason to visit Greyton,
Von Geusau Chocolates provides it. Sold next door to
Oak and Vigne where very good coffee and delicious chocolate croissants reign. I have a soft spot for croissants. The size of half my rump I would say. A very big soft spot then. The range of chocolates is vast. My favourites are the ones with rock salt and
the one with crunchy bits. Besides slabs
they also produce those little squares jobbies with fillings and stuff. Words fail me here, so I will stick to bloody
lovely! to describe them.
The Drink
The main attraction of the trip was the wine. The chance to taste the highly acclaimed Chardonnay
and Pinot Noir from the Hemel and Aarde valley in their birthplace appealed to
me. So naturally the first stop then had to be a
brewery.
Birkenhead is a long
established micro brewery just outside of Stanford. The beers over the years have increased in
quality and consistency so always worth a shot these days. We had a taster set (pictured) for R20. The Honey blonde ale is my favourite and
probably their best seller. Snakebite,
the Ale, Stout and Brandy blend, is a bit all over the place with flavours, but
I bought a six-pack. It will make for
good winter time drinking.
From the brewery it was a short drive to
Raka. I knew their wines from shows like Wine-X and
am glad to report that their entire range is worthwhile. The cellar is next to the road, which makes
it easy to get to. We sat in the sun and
looked across at the burnt mountainside.
Earlier the year large fires devastated a lot of the area, sparing the
vines though. The first wines to book a
trip home were 2011 Chenin, 2011 Viognier and 2010 Sangiovese. The latter, as stated earlier, bought
untasted for eating with Italian food.
Friendly service, good prices and above all, good wine makes this one to
put on your list of wineries to visit.
Bouchard Finalyson was the winery I most wanted to
visit. For years I tasted with pleasure the
Kaaimansgat Chardonnay at wine shows. Never bought a bottle before, but as we
entered the tasting cellar, they had a sale.
Great quality wines, no tasting fee, no pretentious snobbery. It was fairly busy with just one woman on
duty, so very efficient and business like.
Slowly we worked through the entire range and in the end bought???
Kaaimansgat Chardonnay of course. Also
some Sauvignon Blanc and a 97, 03 and 08 Pinot Noir. These reds destined for a
taste-off trying to answer the question: Does age matter?
Where Bouchard Finlayson has no views in the cellar, but
lots of atmosphere,
Newton Johnson reverses that situation. Chardonnay sold out, Sauvingon not great, by
now I am all Pinoted out, so best purchase here?
Chocolates assembled from Madagascar,
Venezuela and Sao Tome.
In valley of double barrelled wineries Bartho Eksteen had to
choose a special name to stand out.
Hermanuspietersfontein is the old, full name of the town. He also makes very good wine, so he gets away
with a name that goes round the bottle. Prices
cover most of the spectrum, but concentrates on the high end. Deliberately so, we learn. They go for a price that just sells out so
not to have a dry period. Good problem
to have. Bought some Arnoldus, Martha and
Sauvignon Blanc, including a 03, continuing with the plan to find wines like
me. White, South African and just past
their prime.
Honourable mention here of the one wine I took along for the
ride. A
Muratie Vintage Port from the
previous century. Prominent
tenderpreneurs were still failing woodwork when these grapes were harvested. What a lovely wine, which due to tiredness,
caution and other incomprehensibles I drank mostly on my own. Still two bottles left in stock, will savour
them on a good day.
It all came together at
Creation. The Views, the Food and the Wine. I had probably the best wine tasting of my
life here. Except for the obvious tasting
out of Claudia Schiffer's belly button it will be difficult to improve on the
Creation experience. I should have
booked. The place was filled to the
gills on that overcast Saturday and afterwards I understood why. Our tasting needs were accommodated in the
overflow mezzanine area and a more serendipitous wine event is difficult to
imagine.
A few couples were seated in various unmatched chairs and
sofas. The lovely lady from Worcester
delivered each wine in its designated Riedel glass. I remain unconvinced that a
different glass for each wine is necessary to enjoy it properly, but the
logistics of fetching the glasses led to long intervals between tastings. During these intermissions we took the
opportunity to talk to some of our companions.
And we just clicked. Brought
together by our fascination with wine.
From the restaurant the chocolate, olive and bread platters were
delivered to make food and wine pairings possible. One thing I found interesting was that
everyone had a designated driver that held back on the drinking and except in
our case it was the man. But I was
spitting, which confused the others. Why
would the non-driver not take advantage of the good wine on offer? The concept of designated buyer was new to
them. Although the designated buyer
cannot endanger others, as the driver can, the bank balance can be damaged by
purchases made under the influence.
After tasting the entire range, a space opened up in the
restaurant. So I went through it
again. This time each wine comes paired
with a little snack. Canapés
apparently. I am used to a hit rate of
these food and wine pairings of about 50%.
Here most worked. The one that worked best was the chorizo espanadita Syrah
combination. Now espanadita is a rare
kind of word. Even Professor Google
shows only 14 references to it and all of the food ones are linked to the menu at
Creation. It is a small pie with chorizo
and salsa inside also known as
empanada.
Pie as in Cornish, not the Springbok pie that refuelled the driver
across the table.
And so at the upper end of the Hemel and Aarde valley,
famous for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, I found my Sauvignon Blanc grail. One that smells unmistakably like guava. I don’t care if some wine writers find this
undesirable esters from fermentation. I
love it! For the three years since I
first tasted the
Saint Clair from New Zealand I searched local wines to try and
reclaim that ecstasy. The 2010 Arendsig
tasted like that for a while, but the guava disappeared after a month or
so. By the time I got the 2011 there was
nothing like it. Both the 2012
Diemersdal (the normal version) and Altydgedacht have it, but time will tell if
it will last. It was the 2011 vintage of Creation which to me means it will
retain the smell for a while. Thus keeping me happy for a long time.
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| Loot in the boot! |
From now on my leisure time will be measured against these
three days. Filled as they were with the
building blocks of hedonism: food, wine and afternoon naps.
(1) “Dis
vuil, dit raas en dit stink” were his exact words.
(2) If
it happened at the other end of the day it would have dawned on me.
(3) It
stands to reason that if the village nestles, the brook will babble.
(4) nite,
lite and other shite