Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Say Cheese, Mr Sun



The sun’s rays dipped below the horizon to the artificial sound of electronic shutters.  An unposed for sunset distracted from the very good wine and cheese on show.  Alexanderfontein, Ondine and Ormonde came to Kalmer Karma to show wine and cheese.  This combination fell from the height of sophistication that I had in my youth to a somewhat hit and miss affair in the current climate of food and wine pairings.  So it was with some trepidation that I went to the “classic” tasting.  I need not have trepidated. 

Foto from Kalmer Karma's Facebook page. So much the better for me being out of shot
As starter an Ondine Chenin 2010 (R55).  Unwooded, but made to last.  Deliberately kept back to show its complexity.

The first pairing teamed the Top 10 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Alexanderfontein Chip Off The Old Block Sauvignon Blanc (a ludicrously low R49 for the quality ) with Skattie.  What else would you call a cheese from Darling?  A medium cheese that worked very well with the SB.  The Chip Off The Old Block range is one tier up from the normal Alexanderfontein range that should be available in your local supermarket.  This, the one with the black label, is available only at restaurants and, I presume, the farm in Darling.

Next up Ondine Chardonnay that is made from 50% barrel aged and 50% tank aged wines.  At R60 a bargain and yet another good pairing with cheese from Udderly Delicious.   The ciacotta is a soft jobby that to me added more of texture than taste, but worked very well.  The cheese range available at The Marmalade Cat in Darling and the fresh goods market in town.

That unfortunately the end of the whites for the night.  Ormonde is a large operation that also supplies Sauvignon Blanc grapes to some other well known producers.  The different wines aim at different price points, but CLICHE WARNING: Over delivers at all.  So, in order, Alexandefontein, Chip Off The Old Block, Ondine, Ormonde.  With the latter also containing 2 wines named for the current CEO’s grandfathers to mark the pinnacle.

A fruity COTOB Merlot (R49) started the reds.  This one given to us to enjoy solo.  At least one “Oh I don’t like Merlot......but aaahh this is good”

Cabernet francs not seen too often on its own so this one (R67) with notes of pepper and sweet cinnamon a CLICHE WARNING: welcome surprise.  The cheese partner a pepper version of the ciacotta and once again a proper match.  On to the Ormonde Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (R97) that spent 14-16 months in the barrel.  The cheese was the same “normal” ciacotta that we first encountered with the Chardonnay.  And yet again here it works well.  I will try this cheese with different wines as it seems to neutral enough to enhance quite different flavours.

The wine finale delivered by the Ormonde Theodore Eksteen 2008 Rhone blend that at R250 a bottle is substantially more expensive than the rest.  And worth it.  The Shiraz picked late for fruit and concentrated flavours while the Grenache gets in a little earlier to add acidity.  Some 2 years in barrels and you have a wine you can name after your grandfather.  Perhaps the least successful match of night was the Shiraz dunked ciacotta with this wine.  Not a bad match, but I felt the wine deserved to show on its own. 

I thought that was it, but an event with 22 people in total but only 4 men should end with something sweet.  Handmade toffees flavoured with Shiraz and Cabernet from the farm.  Good toffees judging by the speed at which it disappeared. I've been to many pairing events and expect a 60% hit rate.  This one did so much better and restored to my mind the sophistication of cheese and wine.